I'll start with "I am new to reloading".
Making a couple rifle rounds with out an issue and a couple of handgun rounds with a small hiccup that I was pretty sure I remedied.
So, the question today is about the cannelure and seating when assembling .38 spl to shoot in a revolver and a Henry 357.
Does the bullet have to be set so that the brass ends inside the cannelure? My main source is Lyman 50th Edition, it shows a 38 spl should be 1.55" OAL. To set at that length the cannelure is above the brass entirely. Crimping with a Lee Factory Crimp Die.
Also, the 38's set at 1.55" are never a feed issue in the lever, I've read some have issues with feeding 38's thru the 357 but I'm assuming the longer 38 is what is working for me.
Question is: Do I have to set at the cannelure? If I had bullets with no cannelure would that make a difference?
Thank you in advance.
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Seating, cannelure, crimping
Re: Seating, cannelure, crimping
If i am loading plated or jacketed bullets with a cannelure, I crimp the bullet in the cannelure. The only exception for me was when I had a Rossi 92 lever gun in .357. I was using Hornady 158 gr. XTP JHP bullets and if I crimped in the cannelure the OAL was right according to specs but they were too long for the Rossi to feed, so I actually seated the bullets a little deeper in order for the Rossi to feed them. I have since sold that rifle and my Henry .357 has no problem feeding my reloads crimped in the cannelure.
H001, H001L, H004, H001TM, H001TLB, H006, H010, H012M, H012GR
NRA Member, GOA Member, ISRA Member, ILCCW
NRA Member, GOA Member, ISRA Member, ILCCW
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Re: Seating, cannelure, crimping
Steve51 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 06, 2023 5:33 pmIf i am loading plated or jacketed bullets with a cannelure, I crimp the bullet in the cannelure. The only exception for me was when I had a Rossi 92 lever gun in .357. I was using Hornady 158 gr. XTP JHP bullets and if I crimped in the cannelure the OAL was right according to specs but they were too long for the Rossi to feed, so I actually seated the bullets a little deeper in order for the Rossi to feed them. I have since sold that rifle and my Henry .357 has no problem feeding my reloads crimped in the cannelure.
thank you from another ISRA member. The more I look the more sense it makes to crimp at the cannelure. They will be a little shorter so feeding should be ok. The 357's feed well, the longer 38's fed pretty cleanly. but may end up becoming finicky. Time will tell.
Re: Seating, cannelure, crimping
I never shoot .38 specials in my Henry .38/.357 rifle. In my revolvers I shoot both .38 spl. and .357 magnum but not my rifle. I have two loads I use for my rifle, same bullet for both loads but different powders. Velocities and POI for both loads are very close, so I am confident of hitting what I am aiming at. I rarely, if ever shoot distances over 25 yds with my revolvers, so they are pretty good with whatever ammo I shoot. A pop can at 25 yards has a great chance of survival if I am shooting a revolver (even one with 7 shots).
H001, H001L, H004, H001TM, H001TLB, H006, H010, H012M, H012GR
NRA Member, GOA Member, ISRA Member, ILCCW
NRA Member, GOA Member, ISRA Member, ILCCW
Re: Seating, cannelure, crimping
I'm a fairly new reloader also. I will say that shooting 38's in the big boy x feeds fine. Even the 148 grain wad cutters. You do have to be slow and deliberate with your working of the gun. As for accuracy, I originally went by what the book said, and had some accuracy issues. I seat at the cannelure now, ( provided it is with in the COAL for the load) and have better accuracy. Then a gain, i may just not suck as much at reloading.