"Action/TriggerJob" on HBB

[JimCunn]

Spring currently installed is #33101 from triggershims.
Installed shims on lever, polished action, and used Boron nitride lubricant on brass .357Mag.
Did not do any work on the sear.

Made a big difference in the 'feel' of the gun. Trigger pull dropped from 2 pounds 14 ounces to one pound 15 ounces with much smoother action on lever. Trigger also seems crisper, maybe.

[pennsylvaniapete]

Where does one find Boron Nitride?
What parts do you put it on?

Thanks….Pete

[Mags]

Spring currently installed is #33101 from triggershims.
Installed shims on lever, polished action, and used Boron nitride lubricant on brass .357Mag.
Did not do any work on the sear.

Made a big difference in the 'feel' of the gun. Trigger pull dropped from 2 pounds 14 ounces to one pound 15 ounces with much smoother action on lever. Trigger also seems crisper, maybe.

Where does one find Boron Nitride?
What parts do you put it on?

Thanks….Pete

There are various products on Amazon. Just need Jim to suggest which.

[JimCunn]

41ND+4AJRGL._AC_SY1000_.jpg

31lEgQyQrPL._AC_SY1000_.jpg

[JimCunn]

I use these two products.

[pennsylvaniapete]

Hey Jim,

Do you put the BN on the sear, hammer, ejector track in the bolt, and the top of the hammer were the bolt contacts to cock it.
How about on the lever pivot screw?
Any other place?


Thanks Pete

[JimCunn]

Everything that moves.

[Cleveraction]

I went the simple route and took it to my smith. For $45 bucks it was worth it, now it is exactly 4lbs. My bolt guns are all at 2.5-3 and my sporting rifle is at 3.5. The smith expressed that in his opinion, 4 lbs. was the lowest "safe" pull he felt comfortable adjusting it to. I am a big fan of consistency, but I don't know enough to lower it more myself, and frankly the 4 pounds feels right on this gun (for me).

[leverjc]

Cleaveraction, your smith gave you a great deal improving your trigger pull for $45. Working on a Big Boy trigger is tough because of how it is set up. I had to make a special tool to smooth the hammer notch. Just could not get any stone I had to fit in the restricted area.

20220113_105439.jpg

The sear is easier to work on.

[Mr. Neutron]

Leverjc,

Thank you SO MUCH for posting that picture!!! That helps a "Trigger Goober" like me a LOT!!! Many Thanks again!!!

I think I can now understand & respect how getting into that confined area of the hammer is a tough thing to do.

I hope you don't mind, but I copied your photo for the purposes of asking a question. Please accept the fact that I am no expert with a graphics program. I probably should have just waited until my trigger shims get here. After I do some disassembly for those, I will probably understand better. Sometimes, viewing something (even as good as your pic) in 2D i still have a tough time figuring things out, so please excuse what is likely a very dumb question.......

Is the part I have circled the return spring for the sear? Or mybe the trigger? Is there a geometric "feature" of the trigger, maybe hidden by the part of the carrier (or whatever that part is called that holds the trigger & sear pivot), that extends back a tad & pushes upward on the sear to make it release from the hammer when the trigger is pulled? I just can't tell from the pic. I'm trying to get a feel for what I am thinking of doing, or may more importantly what I SHOULD NOT try........I know what the hammer spring looks like, and will try replacing that with a lighter one when I shim the rifle (my H009G is one REALLY loose gun, at the hammer and especially at the lever). Will probably add the #6 brass shims some have mentioned. But honestly, from the experience I had with a really nice S&W 686 I shot in the Action Pistol matches, I don't want to go so light on the hammer spring that I have issues with "No-Fires". I've already had one No-Fire with my H009 completely stock and using factory ammo. There's really no substitute for the optimum engagement of a well done classic trigger job, I feel. Just my own personal opinion here........

Have done a trigger job on my Kimber Classic .45 auto, so I'm not totally new to playing with these things. There's not a lot in life that's much easier than a 1911 trigger job. But I guess I've learned to "Proceed with Caution" as I've gotten older. Or not to Proceed at all when I'm not certain, hee hee........ I believe the comment above about getting a spare trigger and sear has much merit.