New Henry BB exterior maintenance

[SloopJohnB]

Not much written on this topic, including Henry Instruction manual. I am just wondering how much "care" I need to give my new BB (brass receiver) with regard to the brass and also the walnut IF the gun is not exposed to the elements? I don't want to go heavy into polishes, and waxes and oils just for the sake of doing it. I have very little experience with wood furniture on rifles. Do different kinds of wood require different treatment (example birch vs. walnut)?

Henry sells Gun Oil Wipes with the following qualifier:

Gun Oil Wipes clean, lubricate, prevent rust and corrosion. Perfect for wiping guns after use in the field or on the shooting range. Apply to barrel and metal surfaces to leave a thin protective film. Safe for all firearms stocks and grips. Pack contains one dozen 6" x 8" wipes.

Not exactly an endorsement for the walnut, but I guess it wouldn't hurt if I use this product to wipe the whole gun down after internal cleaning? Or should I just use it on the metal and leave the wood alone?

[PT7]

A lot of good questions w/in your post, SloopJohn.

Have you read through all the different threads in this forum? If not, you'll find that there is more there than what meets the eye based on the subject lines. Lot of cleaning options, preferences, cautions -- both for internal and external care. You might then follow up through these threads with the OP, or one of the participants, or start a new thread with your specifics. Lots of members have varied experiences in this area, and these folk are just floating around on the HRF, waiting to help out.

Now for my two cents. My Bronze Big Boy was not exposed to the elements for any real length of time other than at an outdoor range. Think I was caught in some rain one time. Anyway, I maintained the brass with Flitz Brass Cleaner. Brings back the "golden shine" quite easy, but have to be careful not to get it on the blued screws. It will take that finish down. I also went for a while w/out using a bronze cleaner. The bronze developed a patina fairly quickly, even without exposure to weather, and didn't look too bad. Of course, you got to like that antique look.

For internal clean, I've used mainly Hoppes #9 and G96 --- both good products. Lately after some forum chats I've tried Ballistol, and it also does a good job. Lots of choices out there. I don't try many different ones, but stick to those I see work well and I like using.

Wood maintenance is something else. I love wood stocks and forearms (work of art to me), and watch my furniture with an eagle eye. I don't often polish them; usually just wipe them down with a clean microfiber cloth after shooting. But when I want the wood to sparkle, I only use Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. Does a darn good job in my book. With my wife's permission, I used it on her quite old, favorite wood dresser top. It has seen a lot of years use (and some abuse). The Renaissance brought it back beautifully; ever our daughters were surprised at the improved wood. As far as how different woods handle different waxes and/or polishes, I'm not up on that. I know that Renaissance has been highly spoken of on any number of forums.

Finally, as far as Henry recommending "Gun Oil Wipes." I trust what Henry recommends as they know their firearms, and are not going to suggest unhelpful or damaging products. If any specific questions about a Henry product, just call their Customer Service. You'll get the help you ask for.

Well, maybe I just wrote about a nickel's worth of stuff. Trust it's a little helpful.

[JEBar]

here is a link to a rather long thread on this topic ..http://henryrifleforums.com/viewtopic.p ... =ballistol.. to make it clear, there are a good number of products on the market, most all of which should do OK .... that said, I've come to where I use Ballistol for both cleaning and lubing on both wood and metal .... works well for us

[ditto1958]

Sloop, the biggest thing to remember: less is more. Generally speaking, leave the exterior alone. Wipe it down with a soft cloth before you put it away.

The walnut stocks will look nice forever as long as they are kept clean. The brass on the receiver can be left to develop a patina, or you can polish it with good quality brass polish. Your call on that.

I recommend you get a small container of Renaissance Wax. Lightly wax your rifle with it once or twice a year. That's all it needs.

[SloopJohnB]

here is a link to a rather long thread on this topic ..http://henryrifleforums.com/viewtopic.p ... =ballistol.. to make it clear, there are a good number of products on the market, most all of which should do OK .... that said, I've come to where I use Ballistol for both cleaning and lubing on both wood and metal .... works well for us

I don't have Ballistol CLP, but I do have G96. I would assume they are basically the same stuff?

[ditto1958]

Nothing is the same stuff as Ballistol. Ballistol is a cleaner and a lube. It works well on metal and wood. Is a mild solvent, smells good, non-toxic. Was invented by the Germans prior to WWI as a do-all product for guns, leather harnesses, and as a topical wound treatment.

It's goo stuff.

[SloopJohnB]

Nothing is the same stuff as Ballistol. Ballistol is a cleaner and a lube. It works well on metal and wood. Is a mild solvent, smells good, non-toxic. Was invented by the Germans prior to WWI as a do-all product for guns, leather harnesses, and as a topical wound treatment.

It's goo stuff.

I learn something every day. I did not know that Ballistol is non-toxic. I thought all CLPs were pretty much the same. My G96 IS toxic, even to the point of a warning that "may be fatal if swallowed and enters airways". While G96 does a good job, there is no question that you inhale the fumes. I think I will be tossing it and getting some Ballistol.

Thanks

[PT7]

Lots of info available on firearms cleaning products; tons of choices to try.

This is a thread from the Alaska Outdoors Supersite forums: http://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/sho ... evaluation The OP has provided a huge amount of data on a large number of firearms cleaning products.

These are the 5 attributes he evaluated: Water displacer; Smell/odor; Lubrication; Compatibility; Corrosion inhibition (the evaluator's main focus was this criterion). Hope there will be some things of interest in this discussion. For your future reading pleasure.

[tractortad]

Nothing is the same stuff as Ballistol. Ballistol is a cleaner and a lube. It works well on metal and wood. Is a mild solvent, smells good, non-toxic. Was invented by the Germans prior to WWI as a do-all product for guns, leather harnesses, and as a topical wound treatment.

It's goo stuff.

I learn something every day. I did not know that Ballistol is non-toxic. I thought all CLPs were pretty much the same. My G96 IS toxic, even to the point of a warning that "may be fatal if swallowed and enters airways". While G96 does a good job, there is no question that you inhale the fumes. I think I will be tossing it and getting some Ballistol.

Thanks

Hey Sloop - I wouldn't throw your G96 out just yet - I'm looking at my can of Ballistol right now and it's probably got most of the warnings on it that your G96 has i.e. danger - combustible; breathing hazard - use in well ventilated areas/direct inhalation may be harmful or fatal; harmful or fatal if swallowed. It does say it is skin safe/no carcinogens, but doesn't say anything about using it for wound treatment.

I use Ballistol frequently to clean/lube my firearms and I think it is an excellent product, but the fumes can be overwhelming sometimes - it's not something you want to use in the living room...

[Ziggidy]

About a month ago I contacted Henry about the same thing. Here is their reply:

"Thank you for owning a Henry. The pores of the wood are sealed and therefore, it’s not necessary to use anything but if you must, Pledge would be a good choice.

Flitz(or similar) is for brass components only and blued steel surfaces can be cleaned with Hoppes, followed by a light coat of gun oil."

Since then I have used Flitz and it is good, very little needed. I also tried a polish "Palmer and Bailey" and was happy with it. I usually use Ballistol because the wife hates the smell of Hoppes. When I am done, I'll wipe a little all over, including the stock. I also keep it in a sock.

Have fun.....be safe

[SloopJohnB]

Nothing is the same stuff as Ballistol. Ballistol is a cleaner and a lube. It works well on metal and wood. Is a mild solvent, smells good, non-toxic. Was invented by the Germans prior to WWI as a do-all product for guns, leather harnesses, and as a topical wound treatment.

It's goo stuff.

I learn something every day. I did not know that Ballistol is non-toxic. I thought all CLPs were pretty much the same. My G96 IS toxic, even to the point of a warning that "may be fatal if swallowed and enters airways". While G96 does a good job, there is no question that you inhale the fumes. I think I will be tossing it and getting some Ballistol.

Thanks

Hey Sloop - I wouldn't throw your G96 out just yet - I'm looking at my can of Ballistol right now and it's probably got most of the warnings on it that your G96 has i.e. danger - combustible; breathing hazard - use in well ventilated areas/direct inhalation may be harmful or fatal; harmful or fatal if swallowed. It does say it is skin safe/no carcinogens, but doesn't say anything about using it for wound treatment.

I use Ballistol frequently to clean/lube my firearms and I think it is an excellent product, but the fumes can be overwhelming sometimes - it's not something you want to use in the living room...

Yeah I rethought it after posting. I have decided however to ONLY use the G96 outdoors, to quit sniffing it (it smells kind of good), and to use rubber gloves.

[SloopJohnB]

About a month ago I contacted Henry about the same thing. Here is their reply:

"Thank you for owning a Henry. The pores of the wood are sealed and therefore, it’s not necessary to use anything but if you must, Pledge would be a good choice.

Flitz(or similar) is for brass components only and blued steel surfaces can be cleaned with Hoppes, followed by a light coat of gun oil."

Since then I have used Flitz and it is good, very little needed. I also tried a polish "Palmer and Bailey" and was happy with it. I usually use Ballistol because the wife hates the smell of Hoppes. When I am done, I'll wipe a little all over, including the stock. I also keep it in a sock.

Have fun.....be safe

Thanks for the reply, especially regarding their answer on the wood.

I also contacted Henry this morning and talked to a young lady. For the brass, she mentioned some products like NeverDull, Peek, and FLITZ. I really don't think she grasped what I was after, as I believe those products should be reserved until you have some brass finish issues. unless I am wrong, I suspect that the Big Boy brass receivers have some kind of clear coat on them, like most brass articles do today. That will prevent tarnishing for many many years. If you start using polishes on that clear coat, you will wear it out pdq.

She was not helpful with regard to the wood. So .......... as I too keep my gun in a sock (which has a silicon component), I am going to do nothing but wipe the gun down and keep it in the sock.

[tractortad]

I also contacted Henry this morning and talked to a young lady. For the brass, she mentioned some products like NeverDull, Peek, and FLITZ. I really don't think she grasped what I was after, as I believe those products should be reserved until you have some brass finish issues. unless I am wrong, I suspect that the Big Boy brass receivers have some kind of clear coat on them, like most brass articles do today. That will prevent tarnishing for many many years. If you start using polishes on that clear coat, you will wear it out pdq.

She was not helpful with regard to the wood. So .......... as I too keep my gun in a sock (which has a silicon component), I am going to do nothing but wipe the gun down and keep it in the sock.

Good idea on the sock - that's the way I store mine. The lady at Henry is right - there is no clearcoat on your Bigboy - that's why a lot of guys use Flitz/Neverdull to shine up the brass and then put a coat of rennisance(sp?) or other wax on it to prevent it from showing fingerprints or tarnishing. For the wood, I just use Ballistol.

[JNG3]

As a rust prevenative I have found nothing better than Brownells #2. It is not a lubricating oil or a general gun cleaning solvent. It's sole purpose is to prevent rust/corrosion.