Henry Rifle Forums

Just purchased my second Henry (H001 .22 S/L/LR). It will be used for plinking/varmint hunting/small game hunting. I do not intend to install scope on it (YET!).
A couple of questions for you...
1. At what distance would you recommend I zero the rifle ?
2.What is your recommended sight picture ?
A.Top of front post at bottom of bullseye OR
B.Top of front post at center of bullseye .

Thanks for your response.

Top of front post at bottom of bullseye

This is commonly referred to as the '6 O'clock hold' and is what I prefer.
50 yards is textbook for a .22.

.
What Mistered said. Then shoot CCI Mini-Mag LR or equivalent. They'll shoot flat and straight out to about 75 yds in my experience.

Bad Bob wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 02, 2019 6:34 pm

Just purchased my second Henry (H001 .22 S/L/LR). It will be used for plinking/varmint hunting/small game hunting. I do not intend to install scope on it (YET!).
A couple of questions for you...
1. At what distance would you recommend I zero the rifle ?
2.What is your recommended sight picture ?
A.Top of front post at bottom of bullseye OR
B.Top of front post at center of bullseye .

Thanks for your response.

Let me "splane" why I asked...
First, I agree that 50 yards is my accepted distance (and the best I can do with old eyes). Second, not ALL bullseyes are the same diameter. Lets say that the target I select has a 6" dia. bullseye. When using the 6 O'clock hold the zeroed group will be shooting 3" ABOVE the top of the front post.
If I zero the rifle to shoot at the top of the front post, the group will always be there, no matter what the size of the bullseye.
I just saw a video where the shooter used the top of the front post and somehow it makes sense to me.. I.E. Why hold BENEATH the target when you can put the top of the post exactly where you want the bullet to strike?
Just asking??

I like the 6 oclock hold because it always lets you see what you are shooting at.

Bob

The six o'clock hold is the preferred hold for bullseye shooting where you are shooting a bullseye with a specific diameter at a specific range. With your sights adjusted, accordingly, it will give you better groups when shooting bullseyes than a dead on hold (putting the top of the front sight in the middle of the bullseye). I also used the six o'clock in silhouette, but with the appropriate sight adjustments (requires a quality click adjustable sight and I kept notes as to the clicks needed). The problem with a dead on hold for this target work is that the front sight tends to disappear against the black bull or silhouettes and you simply cannot get as precise a sight picture.

For my hunting and field shooting, though, shooting at targets of widely varying sizes at widely varying distances, I don't like the six o'clock because it requires too much in the way of mental gymnastics. In other words, adding in that extra elevation I used for a six o'clock when target size and distance are no longer standardized is a complication I don't like. Just find it simpler to use dead on hold and use the necessary hold over or under as needed. A scope nor a red dot is a big plus for this kind of work. This is my preference, though. Some shooters do prefer a six o'clock for all shooting. My suggestion is to try both and see what you like.

Lets say that the target I select has a 6" dia. bullseye.

This is excessive for a 'Bullseye'
2" would be appropriate for a 50 yard Bullseye.
Heck my whole target is only about 6" in diameter.

I like to use this sight picture below, when possible, for an iron sight. But as NCG pointed out, dead-on is good for a quick or no well defined focus point shot.

I zero in my open sights to were the top edge of the bead or post is the zero.
I've tried using the partridge on a post method but my brain get screwed up when going from a 12 inch tall chicken at 50 meters and a 36 inch ram at 200.

I also like the Marbels 1/16 inch bead.

6pm. Or 6am. Either one....